Berwick Upon Tweed - Scotland’s Lost Town
Berwick Upon Tweed (or just Berwick) is a Northumberland town located near the border of England and Scotland. Its history is one of conflict and change, with the town changing hands between the two countries over a dozen times throughout the centuries.
Once a prosperous port and Royal Burgh of Scotland, Berwick established a reputation for its commercial and cultural ties to Eastern England, Flanders, France and beyond. Celtic Britons and Anglo Saxons called the mouth of the Tweed home for centuries but the town's Scottish history goes back to the 12th century, when it was granted Royal Burgh status by King David I of Scotland, along with its ‘sister town’ of Roxburgh, as he grew his Scoto-Norman state. This granted Berwick the right to trade freely, hold fairs and markets, and enjoy various privileges and protections. It soon became a wealthy town, exporting wool, fish, grain and hides to Europe and importing wine, cloth, spices and luxury goods. It also had a royal mint, a castle, several religious houses, and a population of around 15,000, making it one of Scotland's most populous towns.
The Tweed Estuary, Berwick-Upon-Tweed
This landscape inspired the artist LS Lowry, a regular visitor to Berwick
@tweedvalleyblogger
Unsurprisingly Berwick's prosperity made it a target for invasion and conquest, particularly during the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 13th and 14th centuries. King Edward I of England (Longshanks himself - a formidable Monarch) captured and sacked the town in 1296, killing thousands of its inhabitants and expelling the rest. He then fortified the castle and rebuilt the town walls, making Berwick an English stronghold in the north. Berwick changed hands several times in the following decades, as the Scots fought to reclaim their town and independence. The most famous episode was the Siege of Berwick in 1318, when King Robert the Bruce and his army besieged the town for four months until the English garrison surrendered. Berwick remained under Scottish control until 1482 when King Edward IV of England recaptured it for the last time. The Elizabethan Town walls came the following century and are remarkably intact, the only bastioned town walls in the UK and make for an excellent circuit of the town today.
Berwick's status as an English town was officially confirmed by the Treaty of Edinburgh in 1502, which ended the Anglo-Scottish wars and established (sort of…) peace between the two kingdoms. Despite this, Berwick retained some of its Scottish characteristics and customs, such as its legal system, currency, and dialect (which still has an unusual, distinctive Berwicker tone to this day). It also continued to be a border town, subject to raids, skirmishes, and rebellions, especially during the turbulent 16th and 17th centuries when the religious and political conflicts between England and Scotland flared up again. Berwick was also involved in the Jacobite risings of the 18th century, which aimed to restore the Stuart dynasty to the British throne. In 1715 and 1745, Berwick was threatened by Jacobite armies but managed to resist and repel them. To prevent further unrest, the British government built new barracks in Berwick, which housed a regiment of infantry to guard the town and the border. Later they became the home of the Kings Own Scottish Borderers. They now house the town museum and gallery, with plans to develop further into a unique community hub.
Berwick Barracks
Once home to the KOSB, now plans are in place to make them a community hub
@tweedvalleyblogger
Berwick's significance as a port and military base declined in the 19th and 20th centuries. However, the town's heritage and culture remained vibrant and distinctive, attracting visitors and artists who appreciated its beauty and charm. One of the most famous admirers of Berwick was the painter L.S. Lowry, who visited the town regularly and depicted its streets, buildings, and people in his distinctive style. Berwick also has a rich tradition of music, theatre, and festivals, such as the annual Riding of the Bounds (very much a rarity across the Border), which celebrates the town's history and identity.
Berwick Upon Tweed is a town that takes pride in its rich history and celebrates both its Scotttishness and Englishness. It is a place that welcomes all visitors to explore the beauty of its past and present. With its impressive walls, castle ruins, museums, galleries, shops, scenic views, and wildlife, there's something for everyone to enjoy. I have a personal connection to Berwick and it holds a special place in my heart. I chose to celebrate my 40th birthday there a few years ago with my family. It proved an ideal destination for a winter break and is also a great starting point for the TVB Tours 'Borderlands' tour. Why not make your plans to discover the unique charm of this English town with Scottish roots?
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