In 2022 I created a series of Instagram posts to shine a bit of light on Innerleithen’s annual summer festival - St. Ronan’s Border Games and Cleikum Ceremonies. The idea behind doing the posts was that for ‘outsiders’ or the curious these Border festivities can appear baffling, inward looking and probably a bit crazy. Well, I can’t argue that there aren’t bits that tick some of these boxes, but I wanted to show what the meaning behind the events were, and why they inspire such love and passion from townsfolk. I also felt it was important to show how Games Week has evolved with the town, perhaps busting the myth that everything in the week has ‘aye been’ the same. I felt in a good place to do so, with over a decade of experience of helping to run the festival as Secretary, as well as fulfilling one of the Principal ceremonial roles back in 2008. Crucially, I am no longer on the organising committee so I can present these as unofficial and unashamedly partisan snippets - it’s my own views, and they may not agree with others who are involved in the festival but they are all underpinned with my love of ‘The Games’, plus a very solid whack of experience of how it actually works. Enough preamble, here they are with some small edits to aid the transfer from Instagram to the blog. Enjoy and remember - On, St. Ronan’s, On!

The Standard Bearers Ball

I’ll start with The Standard Bearers Ball. This event was first organised in 2001 to celebrate the Cleikum centenary. It replaced the ‘Club Night’, a late night dance that took place on Thursday night after the fancy dress - some lament the loss of the Club Night but The Ball helped kicked Games Week into the 21st century - it’s a massive night, a huge party, the envy of many Border festivals whose town principals visit the event, our Principals repaying the generosity they receive elsewhere. It’s formal dress but completely wild in terms of atmosphere and takes place on the second Saturday in July in a huge marquee at the school - basically this event is a blank canvass each year and organising it alone is a huge undertaking for volunteers, let alone it being the start of a busy week! If you are married imagine organising your wedding every year for the past 20 🥴.

Car Treasure Hunt

Ah, for a small but committed group of people this is the highlight of Games Week. The premise is simple - fill a car with friends or family (share the petrol costs!) and follow a route around the local districts plotted by a dastardly brain, with an emphasis on observation, cryptic clues and Scots rhyme. The ‘Treasure’ is the solution to these clues, rather than physical items. The event started way back in the 70s and filled the Monday night slot for decades. There have been some brilliant, and devious, setters down the years including the current incumbent, and multiple time winner of the event, my mum! Us Wilsons love a treasure hunt and have in recent years made the switch from poacher to gamekeeper, starting to set them ourselves! For years the event was sponsored by Ballantyne Cashmere (Caerlee Mill), with the star prize being a ‘luxury cashmere garment’, which sounds a bit Generation Game but was, of course, pretty valuable - though I never worked out how said garment was split between the winning team. Perhaps they got it week about? Anyway, I digress, the event was linked with the mill and it’s start time (5.30 - 6.30pm) also chimed with the primary occupation of the 70’s and 80’s - mill workers working in the town, able to get fed and out the door for the hunt to start. That became difficult as the majority of people started to work outside the town and participation dropped. With this change in demographics in mind a different set up was introduced in 2022, where competitors are able to pick up a set of clues and do the event at their leisure across the week. This feels win/win - a night off for the committee, a chance for more people to take part being no longer hampered with the early start (and late finish for wee ones) and, from a safety point of view, a spread of cars visiting often remote parts, not an en masse Monday night invasion! I can’t recommend this event enough, great fun and an excellent way to find out new things about our lovely home area.

Monks and Sash Girls

Right, now we are getting into the nitty gritty! Surely the biggest question to anyone unfamiliar with The Games is why do we dress the boys up as Monks or “wee Popes” as someone once amusingly called them (of course there is the De’il too, all in good time…) It all dates back to 1901, the very first Cleikum Ceremony, which takes place on the Friday night of Games Week - the “nicht afore the morn” of The Games. The Ceremony told (and still does) the story of St. Ronan, a legendary dark ages monk and Patron Saint of Innerleithen. As the medieval monk used the light of early Christianity to illuminate 8th century Scotland, so the Dux Boy (who portrays St. Ronan in the ceremony) and the 11 boys chosen to represent his followers (The Monks) light up the present day by their exceptional abilities at school. The Dux Boy was traditionally the brightest boy in the school, which used to be formalised with a test but is now a broader decision made by teachers and he is joined at the ceremony by The Dux Girl, a fellow P7 (this role was added for the 1902 ceremony- just Monks in year one). Dux is Latin for leader and has long been used in Scotland to refer to the highest graduate from a particular academic class, so it is apt that these two children are the main Principals of St Ronans Games, this emphasis on kids being a critical part of the Cleikum.

For 65 (!) years The Dux Girl was the lone female representative in The Cleikum, hard to fathom to modern sensibilities, however that wrong was righted in 1966 when Sash Girls were introduced, the brainchild of Murray Allan late owner of a cashmere business in Cleiukm Mill and Games Committee member. Even then it has taken some time for the Sash Girls to be fully integrated and the committee deserve credit for now ensuring the roles are equal and the Sash Girls attend every event, ably supporting the Dux Girl and bringing great pride to their classmates and families. The Cleikum Ceremonies are an emotional highlight of Games Week, recalling memories of past generations and giving kids a focal point to end the school year.

Flower Parade, 2017

Photo courtesy @IanLinton

The Standard Bearer

The Standard Bearer (SB) is selected every year to represent the community at Games Week and across The Borders. The incumbent is charged to ‘honour the founders of St. Ronan’s Border Games’ and carries the banner containing the names of said founders during The Games. The role of SB has existed in pretty much the same form since 1937 when the first ‘modern’ SB was picked. There were earlier SBs in the Edwardian Cleikum but the job (and the Standard) was shared.

Being selected as SB is seen as a great honour, you are nominated by the public and chosen by your immediate predecessors and a small group of Games officials. It’s a great thing to do and as a rights of passage, hard to beat - I did it in 2008 and had no cause to regret it, great memories. The SB is accompanied with a partner of their choice who supports them through their time in office. If you’ve been reading carefully you will see I’ve worded this post with care to not gender the role - but, like the majority of Border festival Principals, it’s currently blokes only. I believe this is something the towns will have to own and face up to in the future, though I have to stress that is my personal opinion and many others across The Borders will vehemently disagree with it!!! As I have hopefully indicated I believe this role should be about the best person for the job and not determined by the social conventions of the era the role originated - all the festivals evolve and in my view this is an evolution the community should, and in time will, make here in Innerleithen as generations move further away from the traditions origins. Of course tradition and continuity is very important to people in a rapidly changing, at times frightening, world so any future debate about issues like this should be kind and respectful of that - pigeon holing people as ‘woke’ or ‘aye been’ isn’t helpful, it’s a grown up role that deserves a grown up conversation.

All of that is for the future - in the here and now we have an outstanding new SB and Lass Rory and Emily who are representing us brilliantly across the region and will play a leading part in Games Week.

The Kirkin’ and Kids Sports

When I first pulled this list together I didn’t include the Kirkin’ and Kids Sports, feeling they were probably self evident, however I feel the need to be comprehensive so here is a run down of what happens on Games Sunday! The Kirkin’ is a service at Innerleithen Church where the Minister welcomes Games Principals, along with a bolstered congregation of townspeople, to the Sunday service. Readings are given by Games Principals and the Standard Bearer gives the Blue Banner to Rev. Edwards for safe keeping - no pressure, Fraser! A fun and engaging way to start the week for the youngsters involved and keeping the Christian values which underpin the legend of St. Ronan to the fore. The name Kirkin’ is a description of what occurs at the service - the Principals are ‘Kirked’, blessed to carry out their duties across the week. Immediately following the service the town flag is raised by The Dux Boy (clad for the first time, as all the youngsters are, in their ceremonial garb). This flag dates back to the 1990’s and I have to say the design isn’t to my personal taste, but there you go - I did say this was a personal view of the week! The Principals are then swiftly taken to visit St. Ronan’s House residential home, entertaining residents with a song or two. Then it’s a quick change and everyone heads out to watch the two town bands on the High Street, followed by kids sports in the park. The kids sports were, until about 2016, held on Tuesday night but rapidly falling numbers necessitated either a move or probable eventual cancellation - thankfully the former was chosen and numbers have increased greatly - another example of The Games moving with the times and needs of the town. There you have it, a whirlwind tour of Games Sunday which has become a bit of a whirlwind itself - it’s not unknown for a few relaxing drinks to be sunk in the early evening at the end of a busy first weekend of Games Week…

Over 60’s Party Night

This is exactly what it says on the tin. Known to most as ‘The Pensioners’, it’s a night of entertainment for those over 60 with cheaper booze and a supper. A source of constant debate at Committee meetings was how to get the over 60’s to attend, as those over 60 now were listening to Culture Club and Adam Ant as teenagers - “they arnae as auld as they used to be” 🙂. But numbers are always healthy for this fun night, where the SB party get their final chance of the year to dance the reel.

Fancy Dress Parade

Thursday is Fancy Dress night. There’s no theme, just get dressed up, go to the park to get judged in a category then parade round the streets. Motorised and non motorised vehicles (floats) meet in Hall Street. Shops and houses can also be decorated and there is quite a fierce competition for prizes in these categories - take it from one who has had to field the complaints, these are stories which I will tell you in private over a pint!

The good thing is if you don’t fancy getting dressed up you can still take part - with no crowd it’s not going to be much fun. Traffic is stopped so the parade, led as all parades at Games Week are, by St. Ronan’s Silver Band, can safely make its way along the High Street before looping down Horsbrugh Street and back up Chambers Street and going back along the High Street. Fancy Dress parades are a staple of almost all the Border festivals and I’m pleased that in Innerleithen it remains, at heart, a children’s event. There are other towns where the parade can get either a bit political or wilfully controversial (I’ll not name the towns I’m thinking of but if you’ve been on the circuit, you’ll know!) That’s not to say grown ups don’t take part, far from it, and to be brutally honest the Thursday can be a right royal booze up - we’ve all got a story of enjoying ourselves on Games Thursday. It’s always, to me, felt like our locals night for a party. Games Friday is the ceremonial night and Games Saturday can get a bit like the Wild West in the pubs and on the High Street so Thursday is, in my opinion, the choice if you want a good laugh and drink with pals during Games Week. Following the parade a private ceremony is held at St. Ronan’s Wells where the Ex-Standard Bearer’s meet to celebrate anniversaries and wish this years new Principals all the best. As settings go, the Wells is hard to beat for this, even in its current state.

Principal Guest

The Principal Guest is appointed by The Games Committee following public nominations. There isn’t a set criteria other than the person being someone who has contributed to community life in Innerleithen, often through a lengthy commitment to the town. The main requirement of this honorary, one year appointment is to deliver an address, on a subject of their choice, at the Cleikum Ceremonies (7 minutes in length, ish…) They also present medals to both Duxes and are the honoured guest of the Games President throughout the week. A really special role, and we’ve had some great PGs down the years - Norman Scott in 2017 basically elevated the role to near Presidential levels, but after 55 years on the Games Committee he had probably earned it…

In 2022 we were blessed with a wonderful PG in Mrs Aileen Borthwick, a much loved figure in the town and in 2023 Ex-Standard Bearer and local legend Chris Wilson took on the role. This year Denis Robson will be our PG, and a very fine choice indeed. It’s probably the highest honour the town can bestow upon a person, and Denis is a worthy addition to a very illustrious list which includes Peers, Knights, Military, Clergy, Weavers, Lairds, Printers, Bandsmen, Carpet Fitters and everything in between.

Mrs Aileen Borthwick, Principal Guest 2022

The Shows

As Secretary of The Games my involvement in the shows that arrive in Victoria (public) park was zero, zilch, nout. The ultimate outsource, a huge and integral part of the week and nothing at all to do with The Games Committee - they just turn up! And how good they are too, how we missed the smell of diesel, chips and candy floss during Covid. The sounds of 90’s dance music, fruit machines and the 10p falls machine. A guaranteed way to lose money but have great fun. I love The Shows, seeing them arrive on Games Sunday a highlight, and seeing them pack up and head off a week later gut wrenchingly sad. Always a talking point (“lot of shows this year” or “no many shows this year”), the Shows run from Tuesday night to Saturday night. Peak time is probably after the Flower Parade, where the kiddies spend the £1 they get for their flowers on 1/3 of a shot on a show ride...

The Cleikum Ceremonies

The Friday Night ceremonies kick off with The Cleikum in the Memorial Hall. The Hall is packed, doors opening at 6 and closing at 6.55pm - sharp! After a few introductory words from Games Committee President the lights dim and the choir begin to sing “On St Ronans”, with the music dropping to a hush as the narrator, hidden off stage, begins with the poetic words “Echoes wake in Leithen Valley and in the shade of Plora, the legend of St. Ronan…”. It’s spine tingling stuff!

When I first wrote this I noted that only JD ‘Doug’ Patterson (Games Legend, Ex SB and former Chairman and Secretary) and me were the only two people still around who have fulfilled the role of Cleikum narrator. Sadly we lost Doug in 2023, and I miss my friend terribly. Getting the call while eating my tea at 5pm of the Cleikum Night in 2015 I stood in for the laryngitis struck Doug, easily the most terrifying job I’ve done with The Games but, by a distance, my proudest moment. His shoes are now filled by another Games legend, KJ Belleville, but I remain on call, should his booming tones desert him…

The retiring Dux Boy receives his replacement and The Monks on stage and the role is passed on. The instillation speech is formal, antiquated but brilliant “seek the good of your native town, cherish its old associations, perpetuate its high name”. The Dux Girl is then invested to office along with the Lady Busser (the Dux Girl from 7 years previous), who busses the crooks, then all listen to the PG speech. Following this medals are given to The Duxes and the narrator tells the story of Innerleithen, culminating with The Games in 1827. Then “Raise High the Banner” begins and the retiring SB enters, often blubbering like a bairn. He returns the standard, unsullied and untarnished, before stepping down and his successor being installed by The President with these words - “bear yourself well that you may long retain the trust of your fellow townspeople”. To me these are not hollow words and all us Ex SBs should keep them in mind. The Sash Girls are welcomed on stage to receive medals, along with The Monks and the ceremony is complete. It’s a brilliant bit of theatre, and the Hall is hot, the atmosphere electric. It is followed soon after by more ceremonies…

For the Fallen and Ceremony at St. Ronan’s Wells

Following the Cleikum inside the Memorial Hall two outdoor ceremonies take place. The first is For the Fallen, an act of remembrance for the dead of the two world wars. This takes place in the towns war memorial, a rock garden designed to represent the Leithen Valley - with the pathway through the middle the course of the river. St. Ronan and his smallest Monk (the Lantern Bearer) stand atop ‘Lee Pen’ and the SB stands on ‘Priesthope’. A lament is played (Flowers of the Forest, with its echoes of the Battle of Flodden) and a service is conducted by a local Minister or Priest. The SB then lays a wreath on behalf of The Games, and the town demonstrating that even on a night of great celebration those who paid the ultimate price to ensure that “freedoms broader day is ours” are not forgotten.

The procession then goes to St. Ronans Wells where the SB drinks the sulphurous spring, delivered from “the hands of St. Ronan”. The Games President assures the SB that “you will remember this day as long as you live”. And guess what - they are right, I distinctly remember gulping it down, water dribbling all over my face as that years St Ronan Rob Lea giggled away at my greedy drinking (it’s a long walk up to The Wells…). In 2022 his wee brother Jonny Lea, as Standard Bearer, had the same experience with Owen Thomas laughing at him - heritage, tradition and a sense of fun, even in the most somber setting, are the bedrock of these ceremonies. And there’s more…

Masonic Ceremony

The final act of the Friday Night Cleikum Ceremonies, once night has fallen, is a mysterious, touching and utterly unique ritual - The Masonic Ceremony. The Freemasons of Lodge St. Ronan’s (856) perform a slow, torchlight march to Innerleithen Parish Church, accompanied by St Ronan, The Dux Girl, all Games principals and visiting Masons from across Scotland. There, the Right Worshipful Master (RWM) of 856 addresses the newly installed St Ronan directly and tells him the curious tale of the Runic Cross. This is an ancient, carved stone, found in the ruins of Innerleithen’s old Kirk in 1871 by Robert Mathison - a superlative builder and stone mason but also antiquarian and polymath. Mathison knew this stone with its strange Celtic markings gave proof of early Christian worship in the Leithen Valley and was of national importance. However he had the rights to all the materials from the old Kirk so fought for it to remain in Innerleithen - and it still does to this day in the foyer of Innerleithen Church (it was outside for years, but the elements were taking their toll on this 1,000 year plus artefact). The Masonic ceremony poetically tells the story of St. Ronan, linking the mythical tale of the Saint into the very real runic cross (“It is a witness of the dawn of civilisation”).

The Dux Girl, Dux Boy, Standard Bearer and Lass are given gifts from the RWM and the Dux Boy is asked to liberate two doves with these words “May peace, truth, liberty and the love of man fire and fortify you and all who succeed in your office of honour.” The 23rd Psalm (The Lord’s my Shepherd) and Abide With Me are sang and the ceremony ends.

Now, to the first time viewer the sight of Freemasons marching may, perhaps, give less savoury associations of triumphalist views relating to Marches elsewhere in the country in July but to that I say no, no and thrice no! It keeps coming back to the same thing in The Cleikum - Christian values, the importance of knowledge in our children and the battle to overcome evil and ignorance, as well as the masonic virtues of brotherly love, relief and truth. The ceremony is a highlight of Games Week, it’s where it all the legend clicks together for me. And that’s Games Friday done, on to Saturday.

The De’il

An effigy of the Devil is held at the front of the parade on Games Saturday (De’il being the Scots word for Devil). The ceremony of The Cleikum tells of St. Ronan, casting the De’il to hell using his shepherds crook. The legend is a metaphor for the light of Christianity being shone across dark ages Scotland and has been retold in various forms in cultures across the world. Our version involves this effigy being carried in parade and a different, less ornate, version being burned in a hilltop pyre each July, keeping the town safe for another year. This is the most folk horror style element of the week (I’ve heard Wickerman on more than one occasion!) but hopefully it makes more sense if people have read this far! The whole story is, for me, a pretty unique merging of pagan and Christian mythology and the sort of thing rural pockets of the UK does very well. The effigy was carved in 1901 by George Hope Tait along with the Crook/Crozier held by St. Ronan. They have been used every year since with the exception of covid and the world wars. The De’il has had a few paint jobs but is still going strong more than 120 years on and will be on display for one day only on Games Saturday, carried by the retiring Standard Bearer.

The Flower Parade

The Children’s Flower Parade sets off at 11am on Games Saturday, kicking off the days events. The main purpose of the parade, and how it gets it’s name, is the children of the town parading, carrying a bunch of flowers. At the end of the parade the kids are given £1 in exchange for their flowers and The Games Committee arrange for them to be delivered to local hospitals and care homes. In recent years supply of flowers has outstripped demand so kids are encouraged to instead donate them to a deserving friend or relative but still collect their penny for their labour around the 1.8km parade route. Very wholesome all round and a colourful spectacle to start Games Saturday with four marching bands, the Games Principals, The De’il itself and floats from the fancy dress adding to the colourful cavalcade. During the parade there are two stops which allow St. Ronan to lay memorial wreaths, and also traffic to flow along the busy A72. The wreaths are in honour of John Euman, MC of the Cleikum from 1902 to 1945 (on the wall of the chemists) and, at The Memorial Hall, both John A. Anderson, a local worthy of the early 20th century, and R. Walker McLaren, Games Chairman 1961 - 1990.

Race Round the Town

The Race Round the Town (Roond the Toon Race for local points) is a brutal foot race and the first sporting event of Games Saturday. The race starts at the Fire Station, and is handicapped so it’s not unknown for some runners to be starting about the Traquair Arms Hotel. The race continues along Miller Street and back along the High Street to the finish. The roads are closed and the starters gun goes at 1.30pm. The distance is a smidge over 800m. It is not an open race, it’s confined to residents of Innerleithen, Walkerburn and Traquair, and in my view is all the more fun for that - the support for the runners from friends and families is what makes it. Runners must be 17 or over though there is a youths 14 - 16 category which, for road safety, is ran at the same time. That distance of 800m on the track is widely regarded by athletes and commentators to be as tough as it gets, where sprinting meets distance, and there have been some sorry states at the end of the toon race - anyone taking part deserves ultimate respect. Immediately after the race massed brass bands play a march along the High Street, formally signalling the start of the St Ronan’s Border Games.

The Games

The Games - two magical words to Innerleithen folk. St. Ronan’s Border Games (to give them full title) were first held in 1827. Organised originally by St Ronans Border Club they are reputed to be the oldest organised sporting event in Scotland - now, this is a fact we are proud of in Innerleithen but I know that Ceres Highland Games up in Fife started in 1314, so what’s it all about? I believe the distinction is in organisation, The Games being run by a continuous club whereas ancient Highland Games were more of a gathering, and have faded in and out over the centuries. Anyway, the driving force of the early Games was Poet and Author James Hogg aka The Ettrick Shepherd (not Sir Walter Scott as The Cleikum Ceremonies narration suggests, it’s not true and is just a bit of 20th century propaganda, though he did attend an early Games and of course we owe Scott a huge debt in Innerleithen due to his novel ‘St Ronan’s Well’ being supposedly set here). Hogg’s vision was a day of sport to entertain the everyday people, a vision still intact almost 200 years on with professional runners competing in foot races for cash, trophies and glory. My favourite bit? I’m afraid it’s the beer tent. It’s meeting up with old friends and new that I love, as the song says…

“at The Games we gather yearly, on, St Ronans, on”

Songs and Beating the Retreat

There are three Games Week songs - “On, St. Ronan’s”, “Raise High the Banner” and “St. Ronan A.D. 737”. The first two were written for the 1901 Cleikum and have both been used in the ceremony to dramatic effect since - OSR being used when the Monks crooks are bussed with the town colours (bussing is an old Borders term meaning to adorn) and RHTB being sung as the newly installed SB, with a tear in his eye, holds up the banner of St Ronan’s to the acclaim of his fellow townsfolk. OSR is the anthem of the town and the first verse and chorus are widely known - by the time you get to verses 3 and 4 we are into the domain of the Games aficionado (hello!) RHTB isn’t as rousing but it’s moving lyrics espousing both the pastoral, and rugged, beauty of the area are well worth study. AD737 came later with lyrics by George Hope Tait (he of De’il’s heid fame!) and music by Jimmy Mercer, Innerleithen legend. Mercer was a very early SB, who produced the Opera for decades and whose staging is still used for the Cleikum (including his fake news that Walter Scott started The Games!) Incidentally he has a housing block named after him in town - Mercer Court, as has the man who actually started the Games - James Hogg. I digress, Jimmy wrote a belting tune for AD737 and it’s very much the hipsters choice of Games songs, telling the story of St Ronan with some arcane couplets and a brilliant chorus. If there’s a Games sing song it’s the one that gets the party started. We are blessed to have two brilliant town bands both of who’ll play a major part in the week. The highlight is Beating the Retreat which takes place on the High Street at 7pm Games Saturday. The ethos is military with the massed bands marching together, in all weathers, entertaining the town before playing melancholy tunes to herald the end of the week. Permission to leave is sought from the Games President and the bands march off, together, to the acclaim of all. I’ll freely admit I’ve shed more than one tear during the retreat (drink has been taken…), it’s a special moment for the town as the sun starts to set on our big week. The bands hard work is then done, with only two fit pipers making the final journey up Caerlee to see The De’il despatched…

Bonfire and Fireworks

Fittingly we end this blog as The Games does - on Caerlee Hill (“Curly”). A parade of all Games Principals, led by two pipers, and accompanied by hundreds of townsfolk, leaves for the summit at 10pm. After a short, sharp climb guided only by torchlight, the party arrives at the top. St. Ronan carefully lights the bonfire which is topped by an effigy of The De’il and the town is metaphorically banished of the horned beasts demonic influence for another year. Fireworks are then let off (a short display, with full cooperation of the excellent landowner, the fire service and in total compliance with the Fireworks (Scotland) 2014 Regs, just in case anyone asks on Facebook…)

And that is that, the parade returns the Dux Boy home for a wee party, the evil one is vanquished, we are all shattered and a wee bit sad, looking forward to next year already!

“We have rights and we'll preserve them
Honest men have naught to fear
Customs old and we'll observe them
Each returning year.”

St. Ronan’s Border Games & Cleikum Ceremonies - The Unofficial Guide