Over the past week or so I’ve had a lovely bit of feedback from my newsletter readers. I’d shared a short story about a recent visit to Gilnockie Tower, and several people replied saying they’d never even heard of it but now wanted to go. That felt like a good nudge to give the piece a wider airing on the blog and social media, especially as Gilnockie is one of my favourite places to take visitors.

I found myself at Gilnockie Tower recently (the home of the Clan Armstrong), guiding a lady from the USA via Vietnam who had ancestral links to the family. It sits just off the A7 between Longtown and Canonbie, right in the heart of the old ‘Debatable Lands’. Once upon a time, this was a place neither Scotland nor England fully claimed, where travellers were few and often desperate. Well, there’s no desperation now. In fact, a warmer welcome would be hard to find anywhere in the Borders*.

I’ve realised over the past couple of years that Gilnockie Tower might be my favourite place to take visitors, and it’s entirely down to the people. The “Heidmaister” Ian is one of the great characters of the border, and alongside Tom who is a guide of rare clarity and kindness, they make every visit feel personal. Gilnockie is small and compact, complete with very winding stairs, yet even those who can’t manage the climb are looked after with a guided video tour, a coffee and a biscuit. Nobody is left out.

Sitting in the wee coffee bar with Tom last week I felt the contrast very sharply with the last castle I had visited a couple of weeks before - the behemoth of Edinburgh Castle! It is magnificent, iconic and busy beyond belief due to its location. Gilnockie is so different, it’s intimate and steeped in Scotland’s story in an authentic way and is the place to go to learn about our borderland culture and history. Now, it isn’t fair to compare them, of course, but I know which experience I will always prefer, and thankfully my wonderful guest agreed.

So if you’re looking for a day out with a difference this summer, drop off the A7 at The Hollows and spend a couple of hours learning about this remarkable clan in the company of the finest hosts you’ll meet. Tell them I sent you ;)

* For the pedants, I know it’s Dumfries & Galloway but ‘The Borders’ is a very slippery term…

Gilnockie Tower is open 7 days a week, 10:00am to 4:00pm, April to end of October.

For more information, please visit the Gilnockie Tower website.

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Give Gilnockie a try this summer…

A Pilgrimage for James Hogg