The Southern Upland Way and Us
The Southern Upland Way, Scotland's sole official Coast to Coast footpath, will mark its 40th anniversary in April 2024. To commemorate this occasion and express my affection for the footpath, which runs close to my home, I embarked on a (sedentary!) journey to narrate its history. I gathered info from guidebooks and websites as well as interviewing individuals who have traversed the route for both leisure and business. While some treasure their experiences on the SUW, others have, shall we say, mixed feelings! Each person, however, offered a unique perspective, enriching the diverse story of the SUW.
I hope this post inspires you to lace up your boots and explore the trail. Happy Birthday Southern Upland Way!
I am grateful to everyone who allowed me use their words and images for this blog, see bottom for image credits.
“The Southern Upland Way is Scotland’s only coast-to-coast long distance route, running across the country from Portpatrick on the Atlantic Ocean to the North Sea at Cove to finish after 341km at nearby Cockburnspath.”
“Where the pools are bright and deep, where the grey trout lies asleep. Up the river and o’er the lea, That’s the Way for Billy and me”
-James Hogg, quoted on the official opening plaque of The Sothern Upland Way, at Tibbie Shiels Inn, St. Mary’s Loch. The Way was formally opened by Michael Ancram MP, Minister for Home Affairs and The Environment (Scottish Office), on 27 April 1984
“The toughest part of the 16 days? Getting to Portpatrick! Oh boy!”
-Always Forward, YouTube, completed the SUW March 2020
“Due to the remote and sparsely populated area traversed, completing the entire Way is a major challenge. It differs from many other classic walking routes by cutting across the lines of the hills, rather than following the line of least resistance along valleys.”
Scotland’s Great Trails Website
“4 of us cycled the SUW to raise money for Macmillan Cancer Care. The plan was to do it during May as it never rains in May and we would have the prevailing wind behind us. Unfortunately we got all 4 seasons and a wind from the North East straight in our faces. Getting caught in a blizzard at Benbrack Arch was a horrible moment. Despite some stunning scenery much of the SUW isn't suitable for cycling with a fair few hours spent carrying the bikes. It took us 4 days with the last day from Traquair to Cockburnspath probably being the most enjoyable. Would we do it again? Definitely not but at least we can say we've done it and raised money for a worthy cause."
Ian Anderson, Innerleithen. Cycled the SUW in 2013.
“The (Brattleburn) bothy was absolutely wonderful. Separate ‘bedrooms’ and a living room with a woodstove and wood in all sizes ready for us to be used. Thanks to the volunteers who did all this!”
-Anne Jan Pool, Ede (Netherlands), Backpacked the SUW in 2015. Quote from his excellent walkhighlands summary
“Over the years I have walked many famous routes but the first part of the SUW from Portpatrick to Sanquhar had everything. Solitude, tranquillity, rugged beauty, open moorland, dense forests and the perfect isolation I was searching for”
- Richard M. Pearson, Author of ‘The Path’. A thrilling novel, set on the Southern Upland Way
“In remote, secret places along the Southern Upland Way, sculptured kists can be found. There are 13 of them, just a few yards from the path. If you look inside you will discover a coin. Each shows an image designed by a young artist from one of the schools along the route of the Southern Upland Way. They show scenes of history, wildlife and the local culture of Southern Scotland. ”
“Stunning beauty wrapped in a challenge with the enigma of hidden treasure thrown in, what’s not to love? ”
“There’s something for everyone on the SUW. The rolling Border hills, the rugged hills of Galloway and in between pockets of being utterly remote, you find yourself skirting around towns like Gala and Lauder. For me the feeling of starting at one coast and knowing that, with a bit of luck, I’d be seeing the other coast in a few days was incredibly special. It’s an adventure not be to be missed. But shhh…don’t tell anyone else…not seeing people for days is part of the charm!”
-Anna Rutherford, Ran the SUW in record breaking 62 Hours and 34 minutes in 2021
“Cheese Well, where travellers used to leave cheese to placate the fairies of the hills. But the Rangers have said they don’t want the fairies getting hooked on the cheese, so they ask you leave a wee bit of siller instead…”
- Iain Robertson Rambles, BBC Scotland, 2021
UCI World Cycling Championships 2023
Mountain Bike Marathon riders on the SUW at Cheese Well. I can confirm no cheese or coins were left…
“We have it fairly straightforward in the East - anyone starting at Portpatrick and making it as far as Traquair demands serious respect!”
-Stewart Wilson (me!), Innerleithen
“We posted our progress on the SUW Facebook page…we felt like celebrities when we were recognised! Our best day, with glorious views, was when we passed the Three Brethren”
-Andy & Judith Palmer, Completed the Southern Upland Way November 2023. I had the pleasure of helping them with a lift from Yarrow to Traquair when illness threatened to curtail their trip. Wishing them well for the Pennine Way in Spring 2024!
“I walk local sections of the route, often on a weekly basis. It’s always a pleasure to stop and chat with walkers on the SUW journey, discussing the scenery, history and memorable experiences ”
-Andy Leigh, Blainslie, Scottish Borders
A very early SUW sign, still intact!
Abbey St. Bathans, nearing the North Sea coast.
“The rain so heavy that I could barely see a few metres in front of me. The lifeless forests of identikit trees, going on for miles. The scary noises outside the bothy I was trying to get to sleep in. The days where I ended up walking far too much because I couldn't find anywhere suitable to wild camp on. The achy legs. The mud. The shortage of accommodation. The sore feet. The fact that all you can do at Cockburnspath to celebrate finishing, is to get the bus somewhere else. The rejoicing at getting to the end. The knowing that it was all worth it. And the burning desire to do it all over again.
One day I will do it again.”
Andrew Bowden, Author of ‘The Secret Coast to Coast’, his story of completing the SUW in 2011
Images
Loch Trool, Three Brethren, Sanquhar, Lauder - South of Scotland Destination Alliance | Duncan Ireland
Wanlockhead - South of Scotland Destination Alliance
Croft Head - Anna Rutherford
Benbrack - Ian Anderson
The Path - Richard. M Pearson
All other images @tweedvalleyblogger
