Towers of The Borderlands
Any Borders Tour Guide will soon find themselves becoming an aficionado of a Tower. These sturdy dwellings weren’t just a status symbol in early modern Scotland, they were essential for safety. Many of the tales that come from them have been romanticised over the years, but make no mistake - the shires along the Scotland/England Border were dangerous places and the remains of these houses act as wee time machines, reminding us of this violent past. There is however beauty and great interest to be found in them, and I have pulled together this incredibly niche and geeky top 10 blog to celebrate some of my own personal favourites. I have added a little of the detail behind the towers, including the Border families most associated with them. All of this will I hope inspire you to get out and discover these places, and the tales that dwell in them, for yourself. So here they are, with up first an honourable mention…
The list is meant to entertain, it is not comprehensive. and the positions are very much arbitrary - you could do a top 100!! Let me know what I have missed in comments :)
Honourable Mention - Greenknowe Tower
Location: Gordon, Berwickshire
Family: Gordon, Seton, Pringle
Did you know?: Greenknowe sits, funnily enough, on a wee green knowe, or hill, just outside the small village of Gordon, Berwickshire. Regular readers will know that my wife is a Gordonian (Gowk!) and many of my family live here or have ties to the village. The tower was originally part of the lands of Clan Gordon, who trace roots back to Berwickshire but are of course a famous Highland clan with more tartan, bagpipes and castles than they know what to do with. Greenknowe is a fine wee tower which passed to the Seton family (themselves part of the Gordon clan) and was remodelled into a fairly chic Jacobean tower in 1581 (date is noted on the doorway). The tower is built from a gorgeous red sandstone and is roofless but otherwise appears sturdy and in good condition, with some cool features such as a sundial and the original iron yett in the doorway, quite a rare find.
Visiting today: This is a wee rant. It’s easy enough to find Greenknowe, on the road between Earlston and Greenlaw, just before you hit the 20 limit at Gordon. Park in the layby, cross the road and wander up the wee hill to be greeted with a Fort Knox style herras fencing. This is not uncommon at Historic Environment Scotland properties as they work through a programme called High Level Masonry Inspection, which has now been running for several years. It means that many of the buildings they look after are either completely inaccessible (such as Greenknowe and Kelso Abbey), or have significant restrictions, as at Jedburgh Abbey. I do not doubt that this is a huge and complex job and will take time, but I worry that somewhere like Greenknowe (which wasn’t on ‘Outlander’ and will never compete with the likes of Linlithgow Palace or Melrose Abbey for visitor numbers) will eventually be deemed unsafe, and with limited funds available it will be permanently closed off to the public. I hope I am wrong, as this great wee tower is owned by the nation and with its (largely untapped) links to mighty Clan Gordon, place in the hearts of Gordon residents plus its wee points of interest deserves to be explored by those who wish to, not fenced off in such an ugly manner.
Read a bit more about Greenknowe in this blog from ScotlandShop, the fabulous Borders business whose founder Anna White is also a Gordon Gowk like my wife Karen!
10. Whytbank Tower
Location: Near Clovenfords
Family: Pringle
Did you know?: One of a number of Pringle Towers in this area, the family are the Lairds of Galashiels. This tower was restored in the 1990’s and as such is a remarkably intact example of its kind.
Visiting today: You can park on the minor road out of Clovenfords (signed for Ferniehirst) and then walk to the tower. A paved road cuts past some houses and becomes a good grassy track. Follow this to the tower, passing the lost settlement of Old Redhead. Signs advise of the dangerous nature of the tower, however you can achieve great views of the restored tower and gardens without getting too close.
Whytbank Tower
9. Drumlanrig Tower
Location: Hawick
Family: Douglas, Scott
Did you know?: This is Hawick’s oldest building, and is hidden in plain sight! From the Main Street all you can see is the facade of the former Tower Hotel, but go round the back to see a hint of this former L plan 15th century Tower. It was originally built for The Douglas family (Queensberry) but passed eventually to Scott of Buccleuch.
Visiting today: It is open to the public, part of the Borders Textile Towerhouse. Free to enter, but please leave a donation if you can. A great place to learn more about the textile story of Hawick and the wider Borders, as well as a regular programme of guest exhibitions Inside you will be able to enter one of the vaulted chambers. Find out more by reading this blog from July 2023.
Full Circle at The Borders Textile Towerhouse — Tweed Valley Blogger | TVB Tours | Scottish Borders
8. The Vicars Pele
Location: Corbridge, Northumberland
Family: N/A, defensive tower built for the local Vicar
Did you know?: I was keen to include at least one English tower on the list and if it encourages visitors to Corbridge then it’s a great thing, as it’s one of Northumberland’s finest small market towns. The tower is situated in the Market Square, and was built using stones from the nearby Roman town of Coria. This is Tynedale, a notoriously dangerous district where even the clergy needed to live behind thick, defensive walls!
Visiting today: The Pele has been restored and now hosts a micro bar and on ourlast visit some traditional Northumbrian folk music, just a magical experience on a cold, dark night.
7. Amisfield Tower
Location: Near Dumfries
Family: Charteris, Johnstone
Did you know?: A stunning tower, with turrets, cap houses and the feeling of a grand baronial castle, huddled together into a single tower! The tower as we see it is reputed to date from 1600, but the Charteris (later to become Earls of Wemyss and March) family had this land for centuries before then. It’s regarded as one of the finest looking tower houses in the South of Scotland and its hard to argue with that. It now belongs to the Johnstone family who maintain it to a high standard as a private hire venue, with Queensberry Events hosting weddings and party functions here.
Visiting today: The tower is not open to the public. It is now developing into one of Scotland’s finest wedding venues so you’ll have to get an invite, or get hitched yourself to see it. Here is the Instagram for Amisfield to show you how stunning the tower is…
6. Dryhope Tower
Location: Yarrow
Family: Scott
Did you know?: Another 15th century tower, which sits squat and mainly ruinous on The Southern Upland Way, near St. Mary’s Loch. Built by the Scott’s of Dryhope, before passing to Wat Scott of Harden (Kirkhope). It was eventually hoovered up by that Border property hoarder, and the most senior member of his clan, Scott of Buccleuch. It scores higher than other, more intact towers due mainly to it’s setting in Yarrow and proximity to St. Mary’s, plus the atmosphere as you approach.
Visiting today: The tower is open to the elements, and the public, with a viewing platform installed. You can see it from The Southern Upland Way, just after crossing the main road as you head away from St. Mary’s Loch. Watch out for bulls is my only advice, from experience!
5. Ferniehirst Castle
Location: Jedburgh
Family: Kerr
Did you know?: It’s a bit of a stretch, however the Kerr stronghold and family is so powerful and interesting that I had to include it. The image below shows the original tower, it has now been significantly extended to make it into a Border castle . The spiral staircases here, and at Mary Queen of Scots House in Jedburgh (another Kerr home) are all left handed. Clan Kerr have been notoriously left handed throughout history, so the spirals turning widdershins favours a southpaw sword hand! Ferniehirst is home to the Clan Chief, former Cabinet Minister Michael Ancram. Another branch of the family, the Kerr’s of Cessford are now the Innes-Kerrs, Dukes of Roxburghe.
Visiting today: Ferniehirst is open for tours throughout the month of July, these can be booked via their website.
4. Fatlips
Location: Minto, Teviotdale
Family: Turnbull
Did you know?: This is a picture perfect Border tower, on high crags overlooking Teviotdale. It was built by the powerful Turnbull family, was destroyed in Henry VIII’s so called Rough Wooing of 1545 before coming into the hands of the Elliot family, later to become Earls of Minto. It has in recent years been restored to its glory and is fairly intact within, albeit not habitable. As for the name, there doesn’t seem to be a definitive answer - so just visit and make up your own story!! Fatlips looks directly into the Rule Valley, stronghold of The Turnbulls and home to numerous ruined towers and fortifications. Campaigners hope to make this area the centrepiece of a Scottish Borders National Park.
Visiting today: Visiting has been restricted by the owners, with only external access available. While this is unfortunate, it is definitely worth the hike to get here - the views of Teviotdale and the expertly restored tower exterior make it so. There is room for a few cars on the back road out of Denholm to Ancrum, please park respectfully if visiting. While you are in the area, there is a nearby ruined tower called Barnhills, another Turnbull stronghold. You’ll find this further along the road to Ancrum.
3. Smailholm Tower
Location: Smailholm, Near Kelso
Family: Pringle, Douglas, Scott
Did you know?: The tower was built by the Pringles, local farmers and kinsmen of the more powerful Douglas family. On moving to Galashiels, the tower and surrounding farmland was sold to the Scotts - and it was here where Sir Walter Scott visited as a sickly child, firing his imagination with tales of the supernatural and the bloodthirsty, violent past of Southern Scotland.
Visiting today: The tower is in the care of Historic Environment Scotland and is open in the summer months. There is a small charge and a very uneven path to get to the entrance, but worth the effort for those who are able. The permanent exhibition which is housed here (and I dive into in the blog below) is a great way to learn more about Border Reiver tales and ballads.
Anne Carrick Smailholm Dolls Blog — Tweed Valley Blogger | TVB Tours | Scottish Borders
2. Neidpath Castle
Location: Peebles
Family: Fraser, Hay, Douglas, Charteris (Wemyss & March)
Did you know?: This huge, L shaped tower has commanded a prominent spot overlooking the Tweed since the 13th century. Before that The Frasers (Norman Knights and warriors of the Wars of Independence), had a wooden castle on this spot. Some locals will tell you that the semi ruined west wing is the result of Oliver Cromwell’s guns bombarding the castle but while its true the castle was sieged by his troops, much of the real damage was done by neglect during the ownership of William Douglas, 4th Duke of Queensberry. He was also known as Old Q of Piccadilly, a notorious regency rake and gambler who had no love or need for Neidpath, other than as an asset to strip. It is a wonder that such an intact, massive tower remains, with much of the credit due to that great conservationist the 12th Earl of Wemyss (1912 -2008). It’s the size and intact nature of Neidpath which has given it such a high spot on my made up (but thought out) list!
Visiting today: Tours are available (and occasionally led by me), keep an eye on socials for new dates. You can get superb views of Neidpath from the paths by the River Tweed, or the river itself if enjoying the new Tweed Valley Canoe Trail.
Tweed Valley Canoe Trail — Tweed Valley Blogger | TVB Tours | Scottish Borders
1. Gilnockie Tower
Location: Canonbie
Family: Armstrong
Did you know?: The most notorious of all Border clans, the name Armstrong has become synonymous with reiving and the debatable land, the area between The Solway Firth and Langholm which was pretty much it’s own micro state in the 16th and 17th centuries. The great George MacDonald Fraser noted in his definitive Borders book The Steel Bonnets that the Armstrongs could put 3,000 men out in the field if needed. The most famous Armstrong of all, Neil Armstrong, visited Gilnockie during his tour of his ancestral homeland in 1972. The clearly emotional Armstrong was also made a freeman of the Burgh of Langholm during his visit, on a day which the Muckle Toon will never forget.
Visiting today: Open to the public from Spring to Autumn, there is a regular programme of events, Clan museum and a feeling that this is an important and vital place for those with Borders roots. It’s this which I believe sets it apart from the rest, a real sense of activity, purpose and pride, while not shying away from the brutality of the times.
Well done Gilnockie for winning my fun wee list. Disagree? Ready to shout at your screen because I missed a cracker? Get in touch and lets talk towers!
Image Credits
Whytbank, Vicars Pele: @tweedvalleyblogger
Drumlanrig: cc-by-sa/2.0 - © Mark Hope - geograph.org.uk/p/1196669
Dryhope: GeoffPlitz
Gilnockie & Smailholm; SSDA/Duncan Ireland
Neidpath: Neidpath Castle
Fatlips: Fatlips Castle restored (2013) cc-by-sa/2.0 - © Walter Baxter - geograph.org.uk/p/3395756
Ferniehirst: MainlyMazza
