What do you think of when someone says Gretna Green?

For most people surely, the answer is simple: weddings! For centuries, couples have arrived here to be married at the famous blacksmiths forge, in a tiny village perched right on the Anglo‑Scottish border. The 1754 Marriage Act in England made it illegal for under‑21s to marry without parental consent. Scotland, however, kept to its more relaxed approach, meaning eloping couples could cross the border and be married simply by declaring their intent before two witnesses (usually at the forge). The laws may have changed in the 21st century, but the tradition has stuck and thousands of couples tie the knot here every year. Gretna Green has amazing brand recognition around the UK and across the world, unparalleled south of Edinburgh I would suggest.

In my head however, Gretna Green was never somewhere for me. It was for people getting married or tourists swept up in the romance of its (slightly kitsch…) image. And to be honest, my last experience with the area didn’t help - the nearby Gretna motorway services has a Scotland gift shop which felt very ‘Welcome to The Highlands,’ not welcome to the wonderful, distinct South of Scotland. It was depressing to me and partly inspired this blog. So when Eileen from Gretna Green emailed to invite me down for a visit, I was a wee bit sceptical, however the prospect of learning more about Joe Shevelan (the first blacksmith employed there in 150 years), had me intrigued. It suggested to me that Gretna Green was leaning further into its own identity which is a very distinct, South of Scotland one. I headed off down the M74, hoping that I would find the sort of authenticity that speaks to me.

A major rebranding exercise begun in 2025 has given the whole complex (which includes hotels, a food hall, café/restaurant, museum, shop, wedding chapel, loos and more) a fresh, modern look. I love a rebrand! From the car park I passed the excellent new play area themed around the Gretna story, before arriving at the Larder on the Border. This is Gretna Green’s food hall, and it’s, appropriately, a love letter to Scottish food and drink. There’s an excellent shortbread shop (the owners believe it’s the biggest in Scotland and I counted sixteen brands), plus cakes, pastries, pies, booze, snacks and all manner of Scottish treats.

What really impressed me, though, was that it wasn’t just Tennents, Tunnocks and Tizer (though all the big hitters are there.) It leans heavily into local produce from Dumfriesshire, Galloway and the Borders - Selkirk Bannocks, Ecclefechan Tarts, Galloway Gin, Pretty Wild Flower Company of Lockerbie, Moffat Toffee, Annandale Whisky, New Galloway Pasta, Hawick Balls and more. It feels genuinely classy, and the Gretna Green branding plus the local food adds a sense of confidence and pride in the South of Scotland - we need more of that! It’s a bit like a wee ‘House of Bruar of the South’, but I would say with a more playful edge.

*Takeaway Coffee at The Larder on The Border*

From there, it was time to meet blacksmith Joe and strike my own Gretna Green coin, heated in the 1,000 degree heat of the forge. Great fun, and one of several blacksmith experiences now on offer. The forge building was previously offices, so this makeover has added a brilliant new dimension to the site. Full‑length windows and viewing platforms mean visitors can watch the smith at work. Joe is great, a trained smith who now is also an ambassador for the South of Scotland and adding his own stamp to a major part of our cultural identity. So no pressure Joe ;)

The museum, launched a few years ago, tells the full story of how this unassuming village became internationally famous and houses the original, extremely battered anvil. Eileen showed me around before we headed to the brand new Runaways Café for lunch. Designed for light bites and takeaway coffees, it shares the same excellent new branding and feels bright and welcoming. The larger Village Kitchen is the other food offering and it does feel a little more old skool in comparison, but a redesign is coming to bring it into line with Runaways. Likewise the huge shop, which is packed with the Scotland classics visitors always gravitate towards (Nessies, coos and all the familiar Highland themed gifts.) They’re not really my thing, and they can sometimes drown out the distinct South of Scotland story, but they’re undeniably part of what people expect in Scotland. What encouraged me here, though, was seeing Gretna Green actively shifting the balance - a shop refit is coming, giving it a more contemporary layout and there are already strong local brands on the shelves, including knitwear from Kinalba of Walkerburn and Eribe of Melrose.

*Runaways, the new café at Gretna Green*

Work remains to bring everything at Gretna up to the modern standard shown at Runaways, the forge and the blacksmith’s workshop, but these changes are clearly on the way, with no shortage of ambition to grow the visitor experience here. The whole vision is classy, with great attention to detail such as the pews lining the corridor to the loos, a cute village noticeboard promoting local events, and the themed kids playground. Michelle Henry, head of attractions and events, confirmed this classy approach was exactly the vibe they were aiming for in this family run business. Competition for visitors is fierce as central and northern Scotland, plus the neighbouring Lake District, are formidable rivals. We spoke about the need for top-quality products in the south of Scotland, and the importance of packaging attractions for the travel industry so visitors stay longer and, frankly, spend more cash. Collaboration across our visitor economy is the way we grow and thrive.

All of this was ringing in my head as I reflected (slightly regretfully) on how I’d once thought Gretna Green was a bit too kitsch for me. But changing your mind is one of the great human qualities, and I left fully enthused about an attraction that is both a major draw in its own right and an anchor for visitors beginning their South of Scotland adventure the moment they whizz past the muckle blue sign on the M74. This place is well worth your time.

*Pews on the way to the loos - where you chose from Brides or Grooms!*

It turned out to be a tale of two Gretna Greens. The imagined one in my head, full of stereotypes fuelled by that service station visit, and the authentic one waiting there in real life. I bang on about authenticity for a reason as it has to be the backbone of how we tell the South of Scotland’s story. What Gretna offers now is exactly that - a distinct heritage, delivered in a cool, contemporary and slightly cheeky way. I’m very glad to have met the real Gretna Green at last.

I was invited to visit Gretna Green as a guest (thanks Eileen!), but I was not paid for this review and there was no expectation of coverage. All opinions and images are entirely my own, along with any mistakes.

Stewart Wilson is a Tour Guide and Blogger, passionate about connecting people with place. Find out more about his work on tweedvalleyblogger.com‍ ‍

Stewart lives and works in The Scottish Borders.

A tale of two Gretna Greens

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