Forest Holidays - Turn Left…
Six months ago Forest Holidays made the world famous Glentress Forest in Peeblesshire their latest location. An £18million, 56 cabin development opened up and promises to bring 20,000 additional holiday makers to the Tweed Valley every year. I have stayed at three of their other locations across the UK, and have always enjoyed the combination of luxury and woodland escape they offer. My intuition tells me that most visitors will arrive through Peebles and, upon departing, instinctively turn right from the Glentress exit. Who can blame them, right? Peebles is a well known visitor town, with all the amenities guests require, and much more besides. However, what treasures they would uncover if only they turned left! Until I can orchestrate the installation of a muckle sign at the foot of the forest, allow me to share my view on the wonders that await those who dare to Turn Left…
Glentress Forest. Day Dreaming of turning left?? ;)
Image Credit: Go Tweed Valley
Your eyes will be drawn straight away to the gaunt remains of Horsbrugh Castle, 15th century towerhouse of the Horsbrugh family. These towerhouses were typical of a time where a Borderers home really had to be a castle. Heading down the A72 you will pass Cardrona Hotel, with it’s 18 hole, Championship golf course and spa. Swing a right here to take you to Cardrona Village, with the nearby Cardrona Forest offering some of the best woodland walks in the Tweed Valley. A little further up the ‘back road’ will take you to Kailzie Gardens, with it’s excellent Courtyard Café and peaceful formal and woodland gardens. Continue on this road and you will end up at Peebles, but I want to encourage you to explore further, so double back and head back to the main road at Cardrona village. By now you’ll have crossed the River Tweed a couple of times, and Cardrona offers a great spot to enjoy the Tweed Valley Canoe Trail. Local guides are available to make sure you don’t get lost! Passing Nether Horsbrugh (look out for another ruined tower…) you will follow the river in taking a sharp turn south after the intriguingly named Dirtpot Corner. After a while you’ll get a glimpse of Woodend Bridge, an iconic part of the hugely popular Tweed Valley Railway Path. This active travel route links Peebles and Walkerburn, offering a view of the valley at a much more civilised pace. Watch out for swooping Ospreys, who call this river home in the summer months and can regularly be spotted fishing here, competing with anglers for the best troots!
Dirtpot Corner
Image Credit: Go Tweed Valley
Before long, you’ll find yourself entering Innerleithen, the small town with a legacy of textile production, which today has embraced a more contemporary vibe. It's become a curious melting pot (or weird, if you prefer!), a hotspot for outdoor enthusiasts, particularly mountain bikers, thanks to its stunning trails and natural beauty, with trendy cafes full of tasty treats, boutique shops and a creative arts scene, all coexisting wonderfully with its historical roots, and proud, mill town identity. Highlights here include the famous Caldwell’s Homemade Ice Cream, a family business dating back to 1911. Expect queues on warm days - but it’s so worth it. The town is also home to the truly one of a kind Robert Smail’s Printing Works. A working, Victorian printers which offers brilliant tours and the chance to buy exceptional, artisan printed products in their exclusive shop, run by the National Trust for Scotland. The High Street in town is proudly 100% independent and is well worth an hour or so of shopping to pick up gifts and treats you will not be able to find anywhere else. Stay into the evening and you have a choice of great places to eat, including Out Out, Traquair Arms Hotel and Saffron Authentic Indian.
An as if all that isn’t enough, let’s get practical for a bit. You’ve had a few days without a washing machine - we have you covered! One Stop Laundry on Waverley Road is a brilliant facility, with self service, while you wait operating seven days a week, and the notoriously chatty girls in the laundry next door Tuesday - Friday, if you fancy a blether ;)
Woodend Bridge
Image Credit: Go Tweed Valley
Before leaving Innerleithen, it’s worth taking the time, and effort, to visit St. Ronan’s Wells. Perched on the slopes of Lee Pen, sadly the visitor centre is no longer open, but the building itself, with stunning views across the Leithen Water valley, and the volunteer tended gardens are a delight. Information boards tell you of the curious legend of St. Ronan, made famous by the pen of Sir Walter Scott.
Time to move on? Well, don’t head north or south just yet, as you really need to visit Traquair. Scotland’s oldest inhabited house, visited by 27 Kings and Queens and a place to easily spend a day at leisure. The house itself is a delight, with secret passages, stunning artefacts and history in every creaky floorboard. The grounds however elevate Traquair even further - parkland, woods, a gorgeous stream, walled garden, peacocks roaming and the all encompassing laidback, off beat vibe Traquair is famous for. It’s all here, and that’s before you even try the ale, brewed onsite in traditional, centuries old oak vessels. The grounds are home to a café, with excellent local chef Val Brunton having recently taken up residence. The house has a full, year round programme of events and is arguably the finest visitor attraction in the Borders. You can’t leave the Tweed Valley without a trip to Traquair!
The Framing Gallery, Innerleithen
Image Credit: Go Tweed Valley
Ok, so perhaps having filled your day it is time to either head back to your cosy accommodation at Forest Holidays, or ,alas, head home having been charmed by all Turning Left has to offer. Well, we have one further surprise for you - a beautifully scenic drive, north or south. If heading north, take the B709 from Innerleithen. You’ll pass the charming (and great value) 9 hole golf course as well as the famous ‘golfie’ mountain bike trails. You are then driving deep into the hear of the Moorfoot Hills, the rounded tops which huddle together, forming a barrier between The Borders and Lothian. Look out for the majestic Golden Eagles who call these hills home. For an experience to remember, you can book a demonstration of the magnificent art of sheep herding with Border Collies in these hills. Julie Hill at Carcant Farm is a passionate, trailblazing collie breeder and trainer, and you will find her in the most wonderful of Moorfoot settings. Soon, you will be on the A7 and within touching distance of Central Scotland.
Caroline and four legged friends, Traquair House
Image Credit: Go Tweed Valley
Of course, your journey home may take you south, in which case the B709 is also your friend. Follow it from Innerleithen to the crossroads at Gordon Arms Hotel, an oasis of foodie heaven in the Yarrow Valley. Pre book for lunch here, and you won’t regret it. From here, a right turn takes you through upper Yarrow, past St. Mary’s Loch, perfect for paddleboarding, kayaking or, if you’ve got your brave pants on, a swim. From here, the valley narrows, as the road climbs before you drop into the truly dramatic Moffatdale. The Grey Mares Tail waterfall is a must see, before this long, dramatic glen eventually takes you to Moffat and easy access to the M74, linking Glasgow to Carlisle.
All that before I even talk about what happens if you keep heading into The Borders, but perhaps that’s for another time…
Golden Eagle
Image Credit: Go Tweed Valley
As you reach the crossroads leaving your Forest Holiday at Glentress, consider this: Peebles may draw you in with its charm, name and familiarity but the road somewhat less travelled, the one where you Turn Left, offers much more than a detour. Innerleithen is a place where Scotland's past and present converge, offering an experience where heritage, adventure and a wee bit of the unexpected all meet!
From the adrenaline of the hills & trails to the tranquillity of the Traquair grounds, from the earthy taste of locally brewed beer to the warm welcome of a brilliant community, this corner of the Borders is a wee bit of gold waiting to be unearthed.
So, the next time you face that fork in the road, let curiosity get the better of you. Turn Left, and let Innerleithen and Traquair surprise you. After all, isn’t the best part of any holiday finding something new and memorable?
